Peru - a Roundup

Since I'm leaving for London today, I figured now would be the best time to do my Peru Roundup.

As soon as you land in Cusco, you notice a massive disconnect. It's as if the country hasn't worked out if it's modern or agrarian. On one side you see farmers cutting their crops by hand and transporting them on the back of llamas; on the other, you see internet cafes, scores of mobile phones and ipods hanging out of every second pocket. It's odd, but it's kind of cool.

Most of the buildings are made of mudbrick, and who am I to comment on that? I live in a mudbrick house, although mine is neater, much larger, much nicer to look at, and alot stronger too. Still, it's kind of strange seeing mudbrick being used on such a large scale. By the same token, some parts of town look like they've been lifted straight out of Eastern Europe where concrete and rebar are king.

When you get to the Plaza de Armas in the heart of Cuzco you can appreciate how old and full of history the palce is. Everything on the way from the airport is new and looks like crap, but the closer you get to the centre, the older and better everything gets. Most buildings still contain Inca framework and stone - it's dead straight, has no mortar between the cracks and is as black as tarmac. I think it's a black variety of granite, but I'm not positive. The largest buildings by far are the Spanish churches, the cathedral being the biggest. Regardless of my misgivings about religion, I can safely say they've got one thing right - architecture. The cathedral's 15 metre high pillars of Incan stone are a sight to behold - it's a pity cameras are not allowed in there.

Cusco is a bustling place with taxis weaving in and out of pedestrians, and hawkers flogging stuff every couple of steps. The streets are steep but lined with Inca stonework and every second shop seems to be an camping store. Every other shop is a supermarket, restaurant or souvenir store.

The further you get out of the city, the better it gets. Once you're past the chaos of a society driving around in daihatsu charades you can appreciate the splendor that is Peru. I've already touched on it in other articles, but it's just stunning. Proper mountains along every road, roaring rivers in every valley, and tireless farmers in funny hats endlessly toiling in their corn fields. The roads have no lines, but that's ok, everyone here knows what's going on. There are many eucalyptus trees here too. They were introduced in the 19th century from Australia to provide timber and they spread much like blackberry bushes back home. The downside is the timber is kind of shit (but Australians knew that already). Still, it smells nice, and there are places which you would swear are in Adelaide. I have a couple of photos.

The 'frontier towns' are small and geared towards tourists because everything up here is related to the Inca Trail in some way or another. Want a walking stick? Easy. Want a plastic Poncho? Just over there. Want a beanie/gloves/scarf or socks, sir? Please sir I have a family to support. Everyone speaks Espaniol which is difficult for me because I speak very little, but most people are happy to mime and speak at the same time. Just be wary, if your grasp of Spanish isn't that hot, you'll be reamed at the markets.

Money-wise they deal in soles. 2soles = $1 AUD so it's pretty easy to manage funds here. You know you've been in a country too long when you say to yourself, 'hmm, I dunno... $5AUD DOES seem a bit pricey for a 3 course meal...' For instance, last night I paid $6AUD for a 4 course meal: Garlic bread, mushroom soup, fetuccini alfredo and a pancake. Tasty, nutritious, filling and cheap.

Before I left, people said 'Oh, you´ll be staying in hostels, you'll be able to cook for yourself to keep things cheap.' This is true, but when a full meal is $5AUD I'm not cooking.

The weather has been pretty cold at night but fairly warm during the day (warm considering we're in the mountains). My guess is 5 degrees C at night, 18 during the day, the highest temperature being about 22 earlier in the week.

It's a magical country and one I insist people experience. Put it on your Bucket List - it's that good. I think I'll be back at some stage with friends or a girlfriend or something because it's a place that is truly eye-opening, and one that would be a shame to miss. You've got around 80 years on this planet, it'd be a damn shame not to spend a fragment of that time in Cusco.