It´s all gone Cosmic

I thought I´d do something different with this entry since I´ve been away for... I´m not sure. 5 days? 6 days? At any rate, I figured I´d post what I wrote down in my little black book because it´s a pretty good indication of how the hike went (read: really well). Also take into account that I´m one of the least cosmic people you´ll meet, so what transpired on the hike is interesting to say the least.


The Journey from Cuzco to Ollantaytambo

Liam Gallagher was once asked ´Do you believe in magic?´ His reply was ´Sometimes I do, yeah, man. And sometimes I don´t. Today I do, tomorrow I might not.'
Today has been a day of believing in magic. From the crowded buses to the towering mountains, today has been a day of true adventure. Real National Geographic stuff. I saw people straight out of Grimm´s fairytales, and places straight out of Lord of the Rings. New Zealand has nothing on the Andes. I was reminded of how much society owes to little old ladies with heavy loads on their backs. Not contemporary Western Society, more human history as a whole.
These people are tiny and sturdy.

We stopped at a school this afternoon to buy souvenirs and to give gifts to the kids. I took a heap of snacks for the kids and bought a hat and scarf from a stall a woman had set up. The kids mobbed us when we brought out the cameras. CLICK *kids giggle* 'One more?' 'Si! Si! Si!'
These kids could not get enough of the limelight. They would insist on looking at every picture after it was taken.

We had a colossal local lunch of soup, corn, guinea pig and a potato-rice combo. Delicious, filling, and very different to what we eat at home. The kids in the classroom danced and sang for us before inviting us to join the fray. Buggered if we knew what to do, but we joined in anyway. I think I hurt a kid´s hand when I swung him into the air. Poor little bastard, his head didn´t even reach my waist. Hair-raising bus rides were tempered by views that no photograph can do justice. It is impossible to communicate scale. 'Big' and all its synonyms are not adequate words to describe what I saw.

I can see why it's called the Sacred Valley - there is something truly holy about this place. That isn't to say there is a religious vibe, more that it is truly one of the world's special places. It´s peaceful even when it's noisy, and it glows even when the sun is hidden. Inca structures are everywhere - on hills, in valleys, along the road - everywhere. In Ollantaytambo there are Inca sites on both sides of the hill. Huge stone storehouses on one side, enormous battlements on the other. The buildings stretch high to the sky and are only missing their ceilings, such is the state of preservation. In the town proper there are many Inca streets and avenues lined with the iconic sloped stone walls. People live in the Inca dwellings today and continue to use diverted river water to feed their houses and clean their gutters. The ground is a mixture of Inca flagstones and Spanish cobbles, and you can see the history all around you. Tonight is a group dinner, then sleep. The hike starts tomorrow.


Inca Trail

Terry Pratchett speaks of 'enlightenment country' in Thief of Time and it is clear that he is referencing Nepal or Tibet. It could, however, quite easily be the Andes. Around every bend is another mountain, another staggering view, another cloud-covered peak, another perfect moment. It's gobsmacking. Some people are just slogging along from rest stop to rest stop, but I'm stopping to smell the Alpacas (or their shit, of which there is alot). This place continues to astonish me, and I can't help but grin like a moron, or laugh like a lunatic. I'm in the Andes, walking the same trails as Inca royalty, and I'm loving it. This is Enlightenment Country. The scenery reminds me how small I am, but reminds me of how much there is left to see in the world. I look at the cloudy peaks and feel uplifted in a way I´ve never experienced. I have come to realise that the only thing stopping me from doing anything is myself. This is an important lesson to learn, especially at the age of 23. The Incan nobility walked trail 500 years ago to clean their mind, body and spirit. I get what they were on about.

As far as the walk today was concerned, it was a no-brainer. There was some flat, some down, and some consistent up thrown in as well. This place is built of UP. The new additions to our tour are mostly aussie girls with a Londoner and a bloke from melbourne to round out the group. All top people. Got talking to a Perth girl, Sam, which is great because it's one less name I have to remember. If I forget her name, I forget my own name, which puts me in a bit of trouble. I kept walking at a solid pace today with the only complaint being a bit of heat on my right heel. No dramas at all. Bloody long trek tomorrow - about 18km, but we go up to 4200m above sea level, then back down to 3600m, then up to 3900m, then down to 3600m again. I do not dread it at all. I'm feeling fit and healthy. I have maybe the heaviest pack of the travellers at 8.5kg. I'm carrying water and alot of 'What If' supplies, thanks to Davo´s advice back in high school. 'Pack like a pessimist, think like an optimist'. Good advice. There is no downside to carrying this extra weight - I'll get fit, stay hydrated, and be prepared for most things in the event that the weather or environment goes sour. I've been thinking of the SAS ever since I read 'Bravo Two Zero'. Compared to the shit they go through, this trek is just a quick walk to the shops.


The Long Day

Started walking at 6:30am today and walked straight up. We could go at our own pace today which is great, because I really struggle walking slowly - it´s far more tiring than getting a good rythym going. Did each leg in about half the estimated time which was great because it meant I had unimpeded views from the top of the passes and didn´t have anyone in my photos that wasn't supposed to be there. Had my first encounter with a squat toilet too - wasn't TOO bad, but a piece of 400mm irrigation pipe extended about 500mm up from the floor with a seat on top would be a vast improvement. What sort of people view squat toilets as a suitable alternative for a flushing loo?

The path to the top of the mountain was steep, oxygen-poor and incredibly rewarding. Real Lord of the Rings shit again today. I was climbing the Winding Stair. Epic. Caz and I made it to the 4000m sign and thought it was the top. We were quite wrong, as the stairway went another 200m up. We reached the top at about 9:30am - 15 minutes ahead of group 2. Got some amazing photos which I can´t upload just yet. We left after 40 minutes and made it to the lunch spot after another 45 minutes. Steep stairs, long descent, no dramas. I've found this whole trekking thing remarkably easy.
Started raining, kept walking in short sleeves with my jacket over my backpack. Got to keep the dry clothes dry. Tomorrow is a shorter day. Sweet.


Inca Trail Day 3 - The Doddle Day

Really bloody simple walk today. Only 4 hours along Peruvian Flat terrain (undulating surfaces). The stairs were incredibly steep on the way down - and by 'steep' I mean 'One wrong step and you're going to break some very important pieces of your body'. Still, loads of fun. Checked out a few Inca sites and chatted to Sam, Ruth and Mel alot. Checked out another Inca site with the group before plodding off into the Cloud Forest. Pretty cool place this Cloud Forest. Got to a turnoff at about 11am and took the long way with Sean to suss out an 'optional' Inca site. We took the long way and ran off into the trees, to be met 15 minutes later by terraces which dominated a whole hillside. It looked like a manmade mountain. After visiting the site we trekked down to the campsite, headed for the showers but ordered beer instead of a shower ticket. Funny how that works.

The group did an afternoon tea thing for the porters today which they loved. It's strange having people carrying the tents and food for you, but it's a damn sight easier than lugging it yourself. Tomorrow is Macchu Picchu. We wake at 3:50am. ugh.


I´'ll write up the thing on Macchu Picchu later on. I'm still sorting it out in my head. It was mesmerizing.

Gotta go buy a battery charger for my camera now - some Customs person in Lima must have nicked it.